By Foster Klug on September 17, 2012
SEOUL, South Korea (AP) — Cho Won-hyuk stands in front of his bedroom mirror and spreads dollops of yellow-brown makeup over his forehead, nose, chin and cheeks until his skin is flawless. Then he goes to work with a black pencil, highlighting his eyebrows until they're thicker, bolder.
"Having a clean, neat face makes you look sophisticated and creates an image that you can handle yourself well," the 24-year-old college student said. "Your appearance matters, so when I wear makeup on special occasions, it makes me more confident."
Cho's meticulous efforts to paint the perfect face are not unusual in South Korea. This socially conservative, male-dominated country, with a mandatory two-year military conscription for men, has become the male makeup capital of the world.
South Korean men spent $495.5 million on skincare last year, accounting for nearly 21 percent of global sales, according to global market research firm Euromonitor International. That makes it the largest market for men's skincare in the world, even though there are only about 19 million men in South Korea. Amorepacific, South Korea's biggest cosmetics company, estimates the total sales of men's cosmetics in South Korea this year will be more than $885 million.
The metamorphosis of South Korean men from macho to makeup over the last decade or so can be partly explained by fierce competition for jobs, advancement and romance in a society where, as a popular catchphrase puts it, "appearance is power." Women also have a growing expectation that men will take the time and effort to pamper their skin.
Evidence of this new direction in South Korean masculinity is easy to find. In a crowded Seoul cafe, a young woman takes some lipstick out of her purse and casually applies it to her male companion's lips as they talk. At an upscale apartment building, a male security guard watches the lobby from behind a layer of makeup. Korean Air holds annual male makeup classes for its staff at Incheon International Airport.
"I can understand why girls don't like to go outside without makeup — it makes a big difference," said Cho Gil-nam, a tall, stocky 27-year-old insurance fraud investigator in Seoul who starts important days by dabbing on makeup after finishing his multistep morning cleansing and moisturizing routine. He carries a multicolored cosmetics pouch so he can touch up in public bathrooms throughout the day.
While U.S. cosmetics companies report growing sales in male cosmetics, American men are often wary of makeup. "Men Wearing Makeup a Disturbing Trend" was how American columnist Jim Shea titled a recent post.
In South Korea, however, effeminate male beauty is "a marker of social success," according to Roald Maliangkay, head of Korean studies at Australian National University.
Amorepacific Corp. offers 17 men's brands, with dozens of products to choose from, and operates two Manstudio stores in Seoul that are devoted to men's skincare and makeup.
South Korean men are barraged daily with messages in popular media suggesting that flawless skin is a crucial part of any plan to get ahead at work and romance.
"In this society, people's first impressions are very important. A man's skin is a big part of that impression, so I take care of my skin," said Kim Deuk-ryong, a 20-year-old student.
It wasn't always this way. The ideal South Korean man used to be rough and tough.
Things began to change in the late 1990s, when the South Korean government relaxed a ban on Japanese cultural goods, exposing South Koreans to different ideas on male beauty, including popular comics featuring pretty, effeminate men.
James Turnbull, a writer and lecturer on Korean feminism, sexuality and popular culture, said the economic crisis that hit South Korea in 1997 and 1998 also played a role in shifting thinking. Struggling companies often fired their female employees first, angering women who had already seen their push for equal rights take a backseat to protest movements against Japanese colonizers and the autocratic governments that followed.
"The times were ripe for a sea-change in the popular images of men in the media," Turnbull said. Women, as a result, began questioning the kinds of men society told them they should find attractive.
In 2002, large numbers were attracted to a hero of South Korea's World Cup soccer team, Ahn Jung-hwan, who became a leading member of the so-called "flower men" — a group of exceptionally good-looking, smooth-skinned, fashionable sports stars and celebrities who found great success selling male cosmetics. Men everywhere began striving to look like them, with the encouragement of the women around them, and a trend was born.
A decade later, ads featuring handsome, heavily made-up male celebrities are an unavoidable part of the urban scenery.
Kim Jong-hoon, a 27-year-old tech industry worker in Paju, said the endless media exposure to famous men with perfect skin helped steer his progression from soap and water to an elaborate regime that includes as many as eight steps, from cleanser to eye cream and lotion to a small amount of makeup powder.
"My skin wasn't bad, but the media constantly sends the message that skin is one of the most important things, so I wanted to take care of it," Kim said.
Once an oddity, men using makeup is now commonplace.
It's also a good source of conversation, said Kim Ae-kyung, 35, a female office worker.
"I feel like I have more to talk about with guys who use makeup — we have more in common," Kim said.
___
AP photographer Hye Soo Nah and writer Minjeong Hong contributed to this story.
Source: BloombergBusinessweek

What do you guys think of men wearing make-up?
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Date: 2012-09-18 01:42 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 01:45 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:11 pm (UTC)brandnewinformation.gif
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From:no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 01:46 pm (UTC)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hwarang
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Date: 2012-09-18 01:50 pm (UTC)but guys using makeup in korea isn't as commonplace or accepted like this article makes it out to be. a lot of people will ask you if you're wearing foundation/bb cream and kinda scoff.
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Date: 2012-09-18 05:43 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 01:53 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 02:03 pm (UTC)bright coloured eyeshadow will be the norm~
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Date: 2012-09-18 01:56 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 02:08 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2012-09-18 02:10 pm (UTC)On a side note, I tried to kpop-up my bf with my makeup but he looked ridic and way too effeminate. Strangely the heavier Visual Kei look looked super hot on him. Idek.
no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 02:11 pm (UTC)i personally rub tree bark and stag urine on my skin if its feeling unmanly.
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Date: 2012-09-18 02:40 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2012-09-18 02:16 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 02:26 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 03:01 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2012-09-18 02:53 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-19 05:33 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 03:08 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 03:24 pm (UTC)(no subject)
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Date: 2012-09-18 03:18 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 03:51 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 04:32 pm (UTC)On a similar note, I'm all for insoles. Women can wear heels to improve their height, men having a similar option seems right and fair. XD
no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 06:26 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:01 pm (UTC)"My skin wasn't bad, but the media constantly sends the message that skin is one of the most important things, so I wanted to take care of it," Kim said.
Just the body image problems that can be associated with selling with cosmetics in a capitalist market. Not only will they be affecting women, but now the population as a whole.
no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:09 pm (UTC)I would be interested in reading more on this subject
preferably from an actual korean feminist scholar tho
no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 06:46 pm (UTC)(no subject)
From:no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:14 pm (UTC)I doubt it had anything to do with his desire for success at this time, but there is definitely this mindset where make-up is necessary and normal for guys. Perhaps it had to do with first impressions, idk. Maybe I'll ask him lol. He's a pretty manly dude, really handsome, and a ladies' man, so I'm doubly confused at his choice for the cream, but whatevs.
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Date: 2012-09-18 05:14 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:25 pm (UTC)(no subject)
From:no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:19 pm (UTC)a korean guy friend taught my roommate how to apply foundation.... badass
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Date: 2012-09-18 05:52 pm (UTC)guys look so sexy with make up on 8D
course i like pretty boys so yea XD LOL
if ppl think men should be "men" and not wear make up then
women should go all natural and not wear make up also >.>
it goes both ways
keke
i'm female and rarely wear make up
only on rare occasions
tho i should probably take better care of my skin XD
no subject
Date: 2012-09-19 12:20 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 05:58 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-09-18 06:05 pm (UTC)I see nothing wrong with it. Personally i like it usually, but I'm too lazy to put on make-up myself usually lol
It was even like the #4 search term on yahoo yesterday. I read their article on it. I was kind of afraid to read the comments though, because it is yahoo. Half the comments on articles think there is a conspiracy going on.