Going fast, and slow, in South Korea

[unreal.livejournal.com]

On the ground and weaving through foreign streets, Seoul is a city like no other. If you’re thinking generic grey-glass skyscrapers and neon lights flooding a typical fast-paced modern Asian city, you’d be wrong. UNESCO has designated it a City of Design. There are no limits to creativity, something obviously encouraged and applied wherever you look. Even though the buildings compete for environmental merit and artistic flair, it’s not the most creative outlet for Koreans. That would be the “art of dining out.”

More than 22 million people live in and around the capital and they all like to hit a local joint after work.

“Koreans never invite people home for dinner. The house is very private but they love to socialize. And drink.” My filmmaker friend Jon, who’s lived in Seoul for the last four years, has adapted well. It’s only been a few hours since I arrived at his doorstep. The friends have been called and a meal arranged at the Fish Market.


This place features infinite rows of fresh seafood, both imported and local. Foodies get to enjoy a scene of bartering and lively banter.

While the fish stalls are on the main floor, our meal is delivered upstairs where stalls are connected to their own restaurants. We take a seat on the floor in a crowded space. A shot of Korean Soju is added to a local beer called Cass.

“Why is the Octopus still moving?” I ask, assuming the traditional sweet potato alcohol is deceiving me.

But my friend delivers a sobering message. “It’s eaten alive,” Jon says. “Make sure you chew it well and fast. Or it likes to suction itself to the throat and you could choke.”

Delish.

Alive is the perfect word to describe Korea. The country is nothing short of one of the world’s greatest success stories. Since the Korean War unofficially ended in 1953 (it’s technically still going), South Korea has had to build itself up from scratch. In only a few decades, a country that was considered one of the poorest has seen an exponential climb up the economic ladder.

What the west has done well, South Koreans have perfected. The country has the fastest Internet connection in the world and global leaders like Samsung, LG and Hyundai are leading the way in innovation. Koreans are the largest ship builders in the world and contractors of the tallest and most advanced buildings like the Burj Dubai and Taipei 101. With the highest estimated national IQ on the planet, it’s no surprise they’ve designed one of the most elaborate subway networks in such a short time. There are 13 subway lines populated by state-of-the-art trains. The matrix even has giant “tablets” to help guide you in the right direction.

It’s the little nuggets of high-tech life that make Korea fun, something I can’t help but enjoy in my hotel washroom. You mean there’s even a computerized menu for toilet options? Yes, I’ll take the heated toilet seat with a “light spray” bidet action. The KTA has done well. (A sign for the Korean Toilet Association at rest-stop bathrooms shows just how serious they are about improving something that can be a challenging experience in Asian countries.)

But while a large majority of the population is basking in technological success, the rest of the country remains anchored in a rich and simple lifestyle. Traditional temples, more than 20 national parks and cultured small towns dot a nation that’s just a tenth of the size of Ontario.

It’s no surprise then to see Seoulites leaving the city on one of the 27 national expressways, heading to the countryside on weekends and holidays. Whether it’s hiking or visiting small villages, Koreans love to explore the diversity of their country. A growing favourite holiday trip involves temple stays. South Korea is home to some of the oldest Buddhist temples and monasteries in the Far East. While a majority of the population is Christian, it hasn’t stopped South Koreans from experiencing Buddhism.

“Buddhism is less about religion to us and more about practicing a peaceful lifestyle,” says Jinny, my tour guide.

She says this philosophy has been attracting many stressed and overworked foreign tourists in recent years. Korean Tourism now caters customized temple stays that last anywhere from a day to a month and cost between $30 and $50 a day.

At Mihwangsa Temple, which dates back 1,200 years, monks ask our group to change into temple clothes before we walk around the picturesque hills. The view of the ocean from a mountain top and lush landscape automatically boosts the “peace” level. Simple and delicious temple food of kimchi and vegetables with rice and soup tastes so good it feels more like a cleanse at a spa.

Too bad we can’t parcel the Zen feeling to bring back home.

After a night’s stay, I’m back in Seoul and soon on my way home. A Little Buddha strapped in my seat, ready to take on the west.

Sarika Sehgal is a writer and photographer based in Toronto.

JUST THE FACTS

STAYING The Imperial Palace Hotel lives up to its name. It’s one of the most decadent hotels in South Korea. An ornate landing pad in the heart of Seoul and close to major shopping centres like COEX, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a city view in elegance. Rooms range from $200 to $500 per night.

GOING Korean Air has daily flights into Seoul, as does Air Canada. A direct flight is about 13 hours from Toronto and can cost anywhere from $1,400 to $1,800 round trip.

DINING Korean BBQ features a great communal eating experience as pounds of fresh meat are delivered to your table, where a personal charcoal burner cooks up mouth-watering food in minutes. It comes with dozens of side tapas-like dishes and is a wonderful experience you can find at any corner of Seoul. It costs anywhere from $8 to $50 a meal.

SHOPPING Insadong Street is loaded with traditional gift shops, art galleries and stationary stores, all of which line a cobweb of atmospheric alleys.

Source: thestar

Comments

[fenixstar.livejournal.com]

agree. I wouldn't want to live permanently in Seoul either but I'm curious to know why from someone who's done it.